Part 1 - Cruising along the main island
"The surface of Venice is constantly metamorphosing {and} painting Venice is almost like being a restorer, peeling off the layers to find the picture after picture underneath."
Arbit Blatas
Whats the best way for sightseeing architecture in Venice?
The best way for sightseeing architecture in Venice is to buy a tram ticket and hop on one of the vaporetto (water tram) crouising along the Grand Canal. Place yourself close to the window and simply enjoy the views. My favorite route would be with the line "1" starting in Piazzale Roma up to Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute. Later you can let yourself get lost on the streets of Dorsoduro neibourhood - the least crowded one and continue on feet discovering the other parts of the city. Finally remember to save some time for a trip to the nearby islands: Burano and Torcello and reserve one day for Biennale.
What to see when cruising along the Grand Canal?
Grand Canal boat trip is the best way to see Venetian palaces and compare their styles. They all have in common typical "building on water" structure. The ground floors are adapted for the water gates to give access from boats to a courtyard, there would be usually a reception. The piano nobile (1st floor) were built to impress, and depending on the period, it could have the double-height loggia, balconies and decorative ornaments and big windows on the facade. While the 2nd floor was usually private space with bedrooms.
Well... I'm not gonna get you bored with the history of the architecture since I know if anybody is into that, will find better source than my post to read about it:) So lets maybe play a little game which i did on my excursion and enjoyed a lot. The task is simple: to pick the right style to the right palace. Below I'm posting four photos of the palaces, each of them represents different architecture style. Choose between: Byzantine, Venetian Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque and assign it to the right Casa. Maybe it'll inspire you to find more of them on your trip and assign the right style they represent.
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Here comes out vaporetto stop called Salute, where you can jump out to enter amazing Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute - a very picturesque church from XVII c, that you can see also on the first photo of this post. Outside the church you will find charming wooden bridge that will lead you to Dorsoduro neighbourhood - much less crouded than the centre of Venice. If you continue stright you can get to Peggy Guggenheim's Museum.
Venice is divided into six districts or sestieri. Although it’s a compact city, each of Venice’s neighbourhoods has its own character and offers different atractions. My subjective description of them you can find below.
I will start with Dorsoduro, as thats where we are at the moment of aborting the vaporetto.
Dorsoduro used to be home for workers, you can find there old windmills and warehouses, which now mostly transformed into universitie's classrooms. In Campo Santa Margherita you can spend good lunch time. While walking I poped few times on the basket full of books, with a note encouraging to exchange them with everybody. It's a place with beautiful small bookstores and galleries, you dont need to search for long to find great suvenirs in this part of the city. You can also see there special wearhouses where they fix the gondolas. It's a very real neigbourhood, nice to relax from the crouds and to see the life of local citizens.They say also that this part gets the most of the sun - in case you plan to visit in winter, there are many butique hotels to consider.
As we move by, towards north-east we will get to San Polo. Lets head towards Rialto Market to get some best italian cusine pieces. You can find there fresh tomatoes, figs, orange, baby artichokes, bitter red chicory and asparagus - depending on the season and fish market is just next behind the corner. If you’re in the market for picnic provisions, vendors may offer you samples.
As you cross the Rialto Bridge - one of the most stunning ones (I strongly encourage you to come back here at night time) you will find yourself in San Marco - but that one we leave for later. Head towards north to get to one of my favourite sestiere - Cannaregio. It should be alredy aperitivo time so you can take advantage of the many wine bars and tavernas along the Fondamenta della Misericordia. There is a strong sense of community here and the neighbourhood has managed to retain butcher shops and bakeries, as well as the other local enterprises that have been priced out of other areas. You will encounter here many individuals, young people and party wibe is deffinately there:)
You can decide if to stay there for dinner or to continue sightseeing to catch some light before the dusk.
On a purpose I left San Marco for the end - when all day trips are finished and leaving busy Venice and you can finally enjoy without crouds its jewel - The Basilica San Marco and Douges Palace. Often you can hear there at night opera singers from nearby restaurants with life music. That gives an extra value to your experiance. And don't even try to have the same moment during a middle of the day. You will just waiste yout time when moving slowly with the wave of turists in the heat.
Castello is the part where we had our hotel, that I can definatelly reccomend you.
it's more on the side but close to all main attractions just not that loud with beutiful view on your own canale and even balcony to have breakfast in the sun while enjoying the soft sounds of the gondolas passing below.
Get redy for the next day - It's your trip to Burano, Murano and Torcello Islands.
I hope it'll inspire you to find more of the palaces and asign the style they represent during your vaporetto cruise.
In the next post I'll express how this trip inspired my project.
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